Our installation service just can’t be beat. Our
installers are courteous and work quickly and efficiently.
In many cases installation takes just one day. With Griffitts
there’s never a mess ! We always use drop cloth’s
and clean up when we finish a job.
Choosing The Right Windows
Understanding Condensation and Humidity
Overcoming Condensation and Humidity
Selecting The Right Contractor
Choosing The Right Windows
When purchasing replacement windows, there are many things
to consider which may seem small at first but in reality
once your windows are installed, become very important,
very quickly. Among them are the following facts and
guidelines.
The type of construction.
Fusion welded is the preferred construction method.
Vinyl windows with frames or sashes that are screwed together
are easier to make, so they cost less. The problem
is that they will leak air and water. With welded construction,
all surfaces of the vinyl profiles are fused together to
make a joint that is stronger than the material itself.
Welded windows will remain solid much longer because of
the way that they are put together.
The amount of vinyl used.
Chances are the cheaper window has parts (extrusions) that
have wall thicknesses of .055” to .062” . The
better windows are made with vinyl extrusions that have
at least 30% heavier walls- .080” to .090” .
More vinyl means more rigid and longer lasting frames- and
that means fewer problems with the operation of the windows.
How the parts are made.
Cheaper windows’ profiles are extruded on single
screw extruders- these are presses that do not have the
capability of blending the vinyl compound. These companies
must use vinyl re-grinds (or pellets) . The problem
with using this second generation vinyl is that it has already
been through the heat/cool process and the vinyl has been
broken down so it is unable to offer as much stability as
profiles that re extruded from dry blend or powder called
virgin vinyl.
The vinyl compound itself.
Many believe that all vinyl’s are created equally.
Not True! The formulas can be manipulated to create
different desired effects. For instance, if you want to
make a brighter white, add more whitener (titanium dioxide,
TiO2). The TiO2 also acts as a stabilizing agent that
keeps the vinyl more resistant to becoming brittle or yellowing
over the years. But, because it is a very expensive ingredient,
many companies cut back on the amount of TiO2 used in their
formulas. Also if you want to create a dark color that you
would be confident enough to warranty for life? Use a process
called capstocking that CO-extrudes an ultraviolet resistant
film on the exposed surfaces of the vinyl members.
Manufacturers of lesser grades of vinyl typically don’t
do this and therefore warrant only their white vinyl.
NOTE: Some companies are now saying that their vinyl
is not ordinary PVC but uPVC. The fact is, all rigid
extrusions are uPVC. The “u” stands for
unplasticized- meaning that the part is a rigid part, not
a softer flexible part.
The insulated glass.
First of all, insist on double strength glass. Double
strength is 20% thicker than the single strength that some
companies use to save material costs. The extra thickness
provides a stronger IG unit that will stay sealed longer.
Secondly, high speed production line IG (insulated glass)
is typically made with a dual seal system. The initial thin
seal serves as a vapor barrier, the second (heavier) seal
is for structural strength. The problem is that these systems
usually use solvent based sealants that flash over time.
Because of this, the desiccant put inside the IG has to
be carefully balanced to remove the solvents as they release
their gases into the viewing area. Not enough desiccant
and you could see rainbows in the glass- too much, and you
create stress on the outer edges that will eventually cause
the seal to fail. Instead, select a window with an insulated
glass system that does not use a solvent based- sealant.
A high grade butyl will give you better protection from
seal failure- and without the side effects. Butyl
is also much better at retaining extra-insulating gases
such as argon. Some other IG sealants will let these
gases escape more rapidly. Also look for warm-edge glazing
. Windows using this new technology are using spacers
that minimize the conduction between the outside and inside
glass surfaces. Warm-edge glazing will help insulate
better and reduce the chance for condensation even further.
The weatherseals.
When people get around to replacing their
windows it’s usually because they are drafty and inconvenient-
in need of maintenance and difficult to clean. Weather-stripping
is typically the cornerstone of a windows weather barrier
system. Unfortunately, it is also and item that manufacturers
of cheaper windows
Value vs. Cost: Not
all vinyl windows are created equal.
|
Feature
|
Best value solution
|
Low cost solution
|
Sash and frame
|
Robust double-walled profiles |
Single-walled profiles |
| Sash construction |
Fusion welding |
Mechanical fastening |
| Glass spacer technology |
New (warm edge with low conductance) |
Old fashioned (aluminum with high conductance) |
| Performance ratings |
Significantly exceeds industry
standards |
Meets industry standards |
| Balance system |
3/4" stainless steel, constant force |
Block and tackle or spiral |
| Hardware/lock |
Custom designed; color-matched
to vinyl profiles |
Off-the-shelf; color does not
match vinyl profiles |
| Styling/design |
Engineered for a balance of traditional looks and
functionality |
Engineered for functionality |
| Warranty period |
Lifetime |
10 to 20 years |
Understanding Condensation and Humidity
Conquering The Myth that Windows
Cause Condensation
You may be wondering why your new energy efficient windows
show more condensation than your old drafty ones. Well your
old windows allowed humidity to escape. Now that your
new windows create a tighter seal the extra moisture in
your home is unable to escape, therefore making you more
aware of excess humidity. Windows do not cause condensation,
instead they prevent humidity from escaping and provide
an easy surface for condensation to collect on.
Understanding Common Household Condensation
Common household condensation or “sweating”
on windows is caused by excess humidity or water vapor in
a home. When this water vapor in the air comes in contact
with a cold surface such as a mirror or glass window, it
turns to water droplets and is called condensation. All
homes have occasional condensation, such as a little fogging
on the windows, and is no cause for concern. On the
other hand, excessive window condensation, frost, peeling
paint, even moisture spots on ceiling and walls can be signs
of excessive condensation and potentially damaging problems
in your home. We ten to note condensation on windows and
mirrors first because moisture doesn’t penetrate these
surfaces. Yet they are not the problem, simply the
indicators that you need to reduce the indoor humidity of
your home.
Where does indoor humidity come
from?
All air contains a certain amount of moisture even indoors.
And there are many common things that generate indoor humidity
such as your heating system, humidifiers, cooking, showers.
In fact every activity that involves water even mopping
the floors, contributes moisture to the air. Condensation
is more likely to occur in homes where January temperatures
drop below 35 degrees F because there are greater temperature
extremes affecting the glass in the home. It is very normal
to experience condensation at the start of each heating
season. During the humid summer months your home absorbs
moisture and then perspires when you turn on the heat.
This is only temporary though, after the first few weeks
of heating your home should dry out, reducing, if not eliminating
condensation. You’ll notice the same scenario
if you have done some remodeling or building. Due
to the high levels of moisture in wood, plaster, and other
building materials your home will temporarily sweat during
the first few weeks of the heating season. Another
factor in the condensation equation is progress. With today’s
modern insulation, moisture-barrier materials and airtight
construction, we all enjoy a more thermally efficient home--
one that blocks the cold out, yet traps the moisture in,
producing higher humidity levels and ...more condensation.
Reducing Humidity Is The Key
The best way to reduce condensation is by eliminating excessive
humidity. So, how much humidity is too much?
The following table illustrates the recommended or comfortable
levels of indoor humidity during the winter months.
|
Outside
|
Inside
|
|
|
|
|
-20 degrees F
|
15 to 20%
|
|
-10 degrees F
|
15 to 20%
|
|
0 degrees F
|
20 to 25%
|
|
+10 degrees F
|
25 to 30%
|
|
+20 degrees F
|
30 to 35%
|
By eliminating excessive humidity in your home you may very
well eliminate most, if not all, of your condensation problems.
Overcoming Condensation and Humidity
Six simple solutions to controlling
indoor humidity
- Make sure all sources of ventilation to the outside
are functional; and use kitchen, bathroom, and laundry
room exhaust fans during and after humidity-producing
activities to vent excess moisture.
- Air out your home periodically. Opening windows
for just a few minutes a day lets the stale air escape
and the fresh dry air enter without compromising your
heating.
- Check your humidifier settings. Use the humidity
comfort levels provided in the table to correctly set
and balance the humidity level in your home.
- Be sure that all louvers in the attic or basement are
open and large enough. You can even open your fireplace
dampers to allow excess moisture to escape.
- If you have a large amount of house plants, try to concentrate
them in one area and watch over watering.
- If troublesome condensation persists, see your heating
contractor about an outside air intake for your furnace,
venting of gas-burning heaters and appliances, or installation
of ventilating fans.
Selecting the Right Contractor
