When purchasing replacement windows, there are many things to consider which may seem small at first but in reality once your windows are installed, become very important, very quickly. Among them are the following facts and guidelines.
The type of construction.
Fusion welded is the preferred construction method. Vinyl windows with frames or sashes that are screwed together are easier to make, so they cost less. The problem is that they will leak air and water. With welded construction, all surfaces of the vinyl profiles are fused together to make a joint that is stronger than the material itself. Welded windows will remain solid much longer because of the way that they are put together.
The amount of vinyl used.
Chances are the cheaper window has parts (extrusions) that have wall thicknesses of .055” to .062” . The better windows are made with vinyl extrusions that have at least 30% heavier walls- .080” to .090” . More vinyl means more rigid and longer lasting frames- and that means fewer problems with the operation of the windows.
How the parts are made.
Cheaper windows’ profiles are extruded on single screw extruders- these are presses that do not have the capability of blending the vinyl compound. These companies must use vinyl re-grinds (or pellets) . The problem with using this second generation vinyl is that it has already been through the heat/cool process and the vinyl has been broken down so it is unable to offer as much stability as profiles that re extruded from dry blend or powder called virgin vinyl.
The vinyl compound itself.
Many believe that all vinyl’s are created equally. Not True! The formulas can be manipulated to create different desired effects. For instance, if you want to make a brighter white, add more whitener (titanium dioxide, TiO2). The TiO2 also acts as a stabilizing agent that keeps the vinyl more resistant to becoming brittle or yellowing over the years. But, because it is a very expensive ingredient, many companies cut back on the amount of TiO2 used in their formulas. Also if you want to create a dark color that you would be confident enough to warranty for life? Use a process called capstocking that CO-extrudes an ultraviolet resistant film on the exposed surfaces of the vinyl members. Manufacturers of lesser grades of vinyl typically don’t do this and therefore warrant only their white vinyl.
NOTE: Some companies are now saying that their vinyl is not ordinary PVC but uPVC. The fact is, all rigid extrusions are uPVC. The “u” stands for unplasticized- meaning that the part is a rigid part, not a softer flexible part.
The insulated glass.
First of all, insist on double strength glass. Double strength is 20% thicker than the single strength that some companies use to save material costs. The extra thickness provides a stronger IG unit that will stay sealed longer. Secondly, high speed production line IG (insulated glass) is typically made with a dual seal system. The initial thin seal serves as a vapor barrier, the second (heavier) seal is for structural strength. The problem is that these systems usually use solvent based sealants that flash over time. Because of this, the desiccant put inside the IG has to be carefully balanced to remove the solvents as they release their gases into the viewing area. Not enough desiccant and you could see rainbows in the glass- too much, and you create stress on the outer edges that will eventually cause the seal to fail. Instead, select a window with an insulated glass system that does not use a solvent based- sealant. A high grade butyl will give you better protection from seal failure- and without the side effects. Butyl is also much better at retaining extra-insulating gases such as argon. Some other IG sealants will let these gases escape more rapidly. Also look for warm-edge glazing . Windows using this new technology are using spacers that minimize the conduction between the outside and inside glass surfaces. Warm-edge glazing will help insulate better and reduce the chance for condensation even further.
The weatherseals.
When people get around to replacing their windows it’s usually because they are drafty and inconvenient- in need of maintenance and difficult to clean. Weather-stripping is typically the cornerstone of a windows weather barrier system. Unfortunately, it is also and item that manufacturers of cheaper windows
Feature |
Best value solution |
Low cost solution |
Sash and frame |
Robust double-walled profiles |
Single-walled profiles |
Sash construction |
Fusion welding |
Mechanical fastening |
Glass spacer technology |
New (warm edge with low conductance) |
Old fashioned (aluminum with high conductance) |
Performance ratings |
Significantly exceeds industry standards |
Meets industry standards |
Balance system |
3/4" stainless steel, constant force |
Block and tackle or spiral |
Hardware/lock |
Custom designed; color-matched to vinyl profiles |
Off-the-shelf; color does not match vinyl profiles |
Styling/design |
Engineered for a balance of traditional looks and functionality |
Engineered for functionality |
Warranty period |
Lifetime |
10 to 20 years |
Value vs. Cost: Not all vinyl windows are created equal.
Conquering The Myth that Windows Cause Condensation
You may be wondering why your new energy efficient windows show more condensation than your old drafty ones. Well your old windows allowed humidity to escape. Now that your new windows create a tighter seal the extra moisture in your home is unable to escape, therefore making you more aware of excess humidity. Windows do not cause condensation, instead they prevent humidity from escaping and provide an easy surface for condensation to collect on.
Understanding Common Household Condensation
Common household condensation or “sweating” on windows is caused by excess humidity or water vapor in a home. When this water vapor in the air comes in contact with a cold surface such as a mirror or glass window, it turns to water droplets and is called condensation. All homes have occasional condensation, such as a little fogging on the windows, and is no cause for concern. On the other hand, excessive window condensation, frost, peeling paint, even moisture spots on ceiling and walls can be signs of excessive condensation and potentially damaging problems in your home. We ten to note condensation on windows and mirrors first because moisture doesn’t penetrate these surfaces. Yet they are not the problem, simply the indicators that you need to reduce the indoor humidity of your home.
WHERE DOES INDOOR HUMIDITY COME FROM
All air contains a certain amount of moisture even indoors. And there are many common things that generate indoor humidity such as your heating system, humidifiers, cooking, showers. In fact every activity that involves water even mopping the floors, contributes moisture to the air. Condensation is more likely to occur in homes where January temperatures drop below 35 degrees F because there are greater temperature extremes affecting the glass in the home. It is very normal to experience condensation at the start of each heating season. During the humid summer months your home absorbs moisture and then perspires when you turn on the heat. This is only temporary though, after the first few weeks of heating your home should dry out, reducing, if not eliminating condensation. You’ll notice the same scenario if you have done some remodeling or building. Due to the high levels of moisture in wood, plaster, and other building materials your home will temporarily sweat during the first few weeks of the heating season. Another factor in the condensation equation is progress. With today’s modern insulation, moisture-barrier materials and airtight construction, we all enjoy a more thermally efficient home-- one that blocks the cold out, yet traps the moisture in, producing higher humidity levels and ...more condensation.
Reducing Humidity Is The Key
The best way to reduce condensation is by eliminating excessive humidity. So, how much humidity is too much? The following table illustrates the recommended or comfortable levels of indoor humidity during the winter months.
Six simple solutions to controlling indoor humidity
1. Make sure all sources of ventilation to the outside are functional; and use kitchen, bathroom, and laundry room exhaust fans during and after humidity-producing activities to vent excess moisture.
2. Air out your home periodically. Opening windows for just a few minutes a day lets the stale air escape and the fresh dry air enter without compromising your heating.
3. Check your humidifier settings. Use the humidity comfort levels provided in the table to correctly set and balance the humidity level in your home.
4. Be sure that all louvers in the attic or basement are open and large enough. You can even open your fireplace dampers to allow excess moisture to escape.
5. If you have a large amount of house plants, try to concentrate them in one area and watch over watering.
6. If troublesome condensation persists, see your heating contractor about an outside air intake for your furnace, venting of gas-burning heaters and appliances, or installation of ventilating fans.
The quality of manufacturing.
Just because someone has a good window design does not mean that the design will be executed properly. (Just as a poor installation will make even a good window bad!) Look closely at the fit of the sash in the frame. Check double hung windows to see how much play there is both up and down and side to side when the sashes are closed and locked. Check sliders for side to side play when locked. And see if casement windows’ sashes seat properly in the frames. Also look at the hardware. Is it screwed on straight? Does it operate smoothly? And be sure to consider the quality of the screen. After all, it’s the little aggravations that drive you nuts. Please click on the following link and take a few moments to read our Expert Buyers Guide . It’s a very useful tool in guiding you to the decisions that are right for you and your home. Choose The Right contractor !
The company that backs the warranty.
A warranty is only as good as the company that stands behind it. Look for a well-established firm with a history of being there for the customer.
-20 degrees F |
15 to 20% |
-10 degrees F |
15 to 20% |
0 degrees F |
20 to 25% |
+10 degrees F |
25 to 30% |
+20 degrees F |
30 to 35% |
By eliminating excessive humidity in your home you may very well eliminate most, if not all, of your condensation problems.
Outside |
Inside |
Temperatures |
Temperatures |
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